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Vintage Clothing, Inside Out

I’ve always been a vintage clothing fan. From modest antique fairs and vintage clothing-stocked lofts in New England as a teenager, to today in New Zealand.  So one thing I’ll be doing here is posting items from my vintage clothing collection, assembled over 20+ years.

My relationship with sewing has always been more ambivalent. My mom taught me the sewing basics – then declined to go much further with me, even though she used to sew wedding dresses for a living. I fumbled on myself, sewing some Garb back in ye Dayes When I Wore Ye Renaissance Fayre Garb. Later, I  took sewing lessons with my friend Gilraen, who is now a seamstress supreme, sewing most of her own wardrobe. Me, I’m still learning, throwing together knit dresses and tops, doing my own alterations.

Vintage love and sewing ambivalence combine in one activity: turning a vintage piece inside-out to see how it’s constructed. Simple-looking things astound me with their hidden detail. So I’ll post these things from the outside – and the inside.

Here’s an example – a mail-order American dress from the late 30s or early 40s. From the good old Sears Roebuck catalog, even. It’s made of a heavy, but slightly translucent, navy-violet crepe, with pink satin details overlaid with navy blue lace. It’s got two small thread belt loops, an indicator that its belt has gone missing. There’s a little sun fading on one shoulder, but otherwise it’s in decent shape.

ears Roebuck dress, hard to date - any time between the 30s and 50s.

It’s very simple looking on the outside. Maybe there was a belt at one point.

Sears Roebuck dress, upper front detailing.

But look at all the detailing on the inside.

Sears Roebuck dress, inside out front.

I think the loose threads are the result of laundering. But otherwise it is in excellent condition. Someone was taking care of a “good dress.”

Neckline and shoulder detailing of Sears Roebuck dress, inside out. Note the translucency of the crepe.

All that piecing for an inexpensive mass-produced garment!

Sears Roebuck, front skirt detailing - five panels!

Sewing is engineering, at the end of the day.

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Korean Fleece Tights!

We’re on the cusp of winter here in Wellington, NZ. For three months, we’ll be lashed by wind, rain, and sleet delivered C.O.D from Antarctica. And I know what that means.

Fleece lined tights!

After hearing about them through the style blog tom-tom drums, I headed straight to eBay. And was astonished to learn that they were available inexpensively, in a huge color range, from Korea. Stylish, chilly Korea. I took the plunge and ordered two pairs, grape and black.

Here they are:

Korean fleece tights in their polyglot wrapper

The writing on the wrapped pair is mostly in Korean. The unwrapped pair, scrunched and rubbed in my hands, feels thick, spongy, and light.

Opaque tights on the outside, tender fleece on the inside!

Frankly, I was worried about the fit. I have a definite and fulsome booty, and some tummy, too. But the tailoring on these, with their kindly extra panel and their stretch, meant that they fit perfectly. Price? $7 US a pair with free shipping anywhere in the world. Shipping to New Zealand is often punitively priced, so I really appreciated that.

The day after I received them, a friend who’s a long tall drink of water (6 feet to my 5’2″) said that she had found them, too, at a local chain department store, Farmers. They are twice as warm as regular opaque tights, but not as warm as my winter leggings. Still, it’s going to be a  leggy winter here.

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Getting Used To Blogging In Heels

It was hard to find my voice for this blog.

For about two months, I’ve been going, “Yes. OK. This weekend. Gonna get that blog up and Breaking in the new heights...running properly. Mmmm-hmmm!” And then another weekend would pass, with me commenting blithely on Facebook, on Twitter, on my Wellington, NZ-based fiction blog, doing freelance web work, lifting weights, sewing, baking, having adventures. But not doing what I meant to do: creating an online voice as a woman.

It was the other voices that made it so hard. Not yours, reader – the other voices that we all hear inside ourselves, even though they aren’t ours. The ones that we sometimes hear as the devil and angel on our shoulders. The angel was saying, “That introduction of yours is intellectually pretentious! Immodest!” while the devil whispered, “It’s all  too much for them, you’re too weird, they’ll never understand.”

It took some work to claim inside myself that I had the right to a space where I could talk about my femme side. With other femmes. A place to be playful and thoughtful at the same time. I wanted a ladyblog, damn it!

What I think of as a ladyblog isn’t just “women in social media.” It’s a specific online feminine presentation for the female gaze, the female voice for female listeners about what we want to talk about. This doesn’t mean that a lot of ladyblogs aren’t totally terrifying. Either someone is presenting a groomed, branded, styled persona, edited for taste and appeal, or they are serving forth nigh-insane levels of compulsive disclosure about topics like marrying, mommying, or making. I’m too clumsy for one, too private for the other. What will I bring you? We’ll find out.

A quiet, substantial portion of the ladyblog audience is on the queer continuum – I was touched and inspired by the out and proud discussions in one of my favorite style blogs, Already Pretty, in this discussion of butch style.  And on another favorite, You Look Fab, the forum members encouraged a man exploring how to present well in a dress. Just because we’re queer doesn’t mean we don’t want to talk about vintage hats or getting the right swirl on a cupcake. (The wrong swirl? Oy!) I wanted a blog that included this up front. Serving it as part of femme realness.

And here it is.