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Cocktails with Cthulu

Another vintage dress from my collection! This is an early 1960s cocktail dress, in a delishful  “wiggle dress” cut, made of slate-to-cerulean-blue crepe. The strange tassel detail at the neck reminds me irresistibly of Cthulu – cephalopod god of unimaginable evil turned Internet meme and geek mascot.

Most fortuitously, a photographer friend snapped me wearing it:

In his house beneath Ry'leh, dead Cthulu lies dreaming...of an apertif...

See how flattering it is? That is why the wiggle dress, and other vintage styles, are having a renaissance (as noted in this NY Times article).

Detail shots time.  Here we have the cephalopod-evoking tassel and the eldritch folding detail. In the shot where I’m wearing it, we can see how the folding becomes flattering bust accommodation. This is yet another vintage dress missing its belt – based on the belt loops, the belt was about two inches/six centimeters wide. The label says “Helen Harper.” This vintage brand was better known for its knitwear. Obviously, this was manufactured under occult influences!

The assymmetrically folded front front is gathered up into the Cthulu tassel.

And the inside. You can tell this was all class because it’s fully lined. Also, note the overlocking!

What lies beneath the crepe fabric of evil beyond the stars? Mass-produced but high-quality finishing.

From the back, the lining is separate from the zipper. And the separately lined waist and skirt are stitched, then overlocked, together.

Skirt lining is separate from the skirt zipper. The separate sections are overlocked at the waist.

This dress is extremely comfortable to wear, and the crepe fabric, spun from nameless fibers, does not crease much, yet lacks the hideous “oh god this is a synthetic, take it off me” feeling.  My educated guess is that it is rayon, or a rayon blend.

I’d say this dress was a lucky find except that when I don it, I can hear the voices, whispering from beyond, “Ph’nglui mglw’nafh Cthulhu R’lyeh wgah’nagl fhtagn!”

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Vintage Hair and Makeup With Debonaire Doos

This past Saturday, more than twenty-five of us wedged ourselves into a room in downtown Wellington. Miss Tittle Tattle had come to visit Wellington for a burlesque performance and for the day after, she had organized a Debonaire Doos vintage hair and makeup workshop. Because Debonaire Doos often does the hair and makeup for a popular pin-up photographer, she’s an expert at doing retro transformations – often on up to 8 women at a time. We showed up with plain faces, slightly grimy hair (to help vintage styles take hold), and our tiny makeup satchels.

Miss Tittle Tattle of Debonaire Doos curls the hair of Miss La Belle. In the background, Marilyn Monroe approves.“When  come to Wellington, it’s like a holiday!” Miss Tittle Tattle purred. I find this hard to believe, because she put herself through her paces in this very intense demonstration. In her delicate, musical voice,  she told us what we needed to know about creating a “vintage look” with hair and makeup, and demonstrated on models Miss La Belle (pictured) and Kelly. The “vintage look”  is the classic face we see in images of the 40s and 50s: the smooth, perfect face with vivid lips and cleanly defined brows and eyes.  Miss Tittle Tattle shared with us the tools for a vintage hair set, the vintage face aesthetic, and guidelines on colors and makeup application, demonstrating on her lovely models all the while. We asked all sorts of questions. I’m not going to give away all her wisdom, but a few of the tidbits included:

* If you’re in Wellington and you want the vintage-curl-friendly “Middy” haircut, go to Danny at the Powder Room salon.

* Put down the hair straightener and walk away from it. You can curl with it, but you shouldn’t, if you want a vintage look. Use steam rollers instead – these lift the roots of your hair and set the curl correctly down to the very tips of your hair.

* When you’re ready to undo a vintage set, take the top curlers out first, handling the hair gently. Then undo the lower curlers.

* Maybelline Eye Studio gel liner is great for cats’ eyes, and affordable too.

* Getting the correct cat-eye liner look is challenging, and takes practice. But “the first time you get your cats’ eye liner right feels fantastic. It’s like the first time you tassel twirl!”

We all know about the multiplicity of vintage-look videos on YouTube by now, and they are very helpful. Still, there’s nothing like being there, especially for kinesthetic learning, live in three dimensions. For me, the two best things to see in person were how you brush your hair after you’ve taken it out of the set to turn it into your smooth, finished vintage style, and how to do those  notoriously challenging cats’-eye lined eyes. We had some play time of our own after the hair and makeup demonstrations. I focused on my face, and here are the before and after looks:

My face, in fluorescent lighting, before and after I applied vintage makeup. Did I mention the fluorescent lighting?

Notice how the strong cat’s-eye liner and mascara makes my eye asymmetry less noticeable (if you didn’t notice it before in Photo #1, you’ll see it now that I’ve mentioned it). And the red lips provide contrast to my green eyes.  Craziest of all, I did those cat’s eyes myself, in a tiny hand mirror, after Miss Tittle Tattle’s instructions. It’s the first time I’ve ever gotten it right!  Well, “right” if the value of “right” = “Amy Winehouse, pre-bender.”

Afterwards, I walked down the street with a friend, both of us still percolating with enthusiasm after the workshop. “I want her to come back and do a six-week course!” my friend enthused. “Maybe if you have a web cam, you could get a consultation with her on Skype?” Then, we were distracted by hats. But that’s another story.

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Just A Little Bifurcation

The dress code here at Scrumptious Labs.Oh, this crazy Internet in the era of social media. Here at Scrumptious Labs I have put on my mad scientist wig and set up the Facebook and the Twitter for this bloggingness. The planet does not urgently need my microblogging, but now you have other ways to be prodded to read posts here, and, what’s more, I get to follow you. In your most sparkly chosen incarnation.

Lots of people I know do nicely with one online self. But others do The Split. I’ve noticed The Split in my Facebook list already; lots of people have a dance/performance persona, separate from the name they used to friend Aunt Doris. And there were lots of peachy, ardent Twitter divas I wanted to follow, on a feed that didn’t have work overlap. Carol Queen. Susie Bright. Brooke Magnanti. Annie Sprinkle. (Don’t click on those links if you’re at work, either!) If I should follow or friend you, check out the Facebook and Twitter and let me know.

Next up: the saga of attempting to save a vintage 1930s evening gown.

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Talking To Burlesque

Oh, also, Burlesque? Can I borrow some shiny things?Burlesque! We love you! How fabulous you are! Your corsets and your sequins and your stagecraft and your music. So fresh after the grungy 90s, so refined after the douchetard Noughties. You’re a magical spectacle of perfect femaleness, yet you’re also Real Women’s Bodies. We want to be just like you! The lips and the eyelashes and the hair and shining accessories. Except we’ll be taking off our clothes less, nothing personal – we know you’re not a “stripper,” Burlesque.

Burlesque, we’re so mad at you. You kept us waiting for hours in that boring bar. Then you show up with some obnoxious boyfriend and it seems like you can’t do anything right. When we’ve been picturing how perfect you’re going to be. You’re too pretty, we feel bad comparing ourselves to you. You’re not pretty enough – why do you get to be on stage, and not us? God, we feel old. Either your outfit sucks or you spent way too much money on it, you’re too prim or too slutty, and what’s with all the politics? You wanted our opinion? You’ve got it.

Burlesque! We’re sorry! We all get so judgemental when we look at you. Everything  about you is magnified because you’re on stage, we’re all watching. You want to draw our gaze and you do it so well. When you’re in front of us, you’re all we can see, you’re so charismatic.  You’re brave and fun, and kind, too – you told us nobody’s too old, too fat, or too weird for the stage. And you invited us to all your parties, every one of us.

Burlesque, you’re this decade’s take on the eternal human beauty of a woman, dancing. Styles will change one of these days – ask your sister Bellydance about that. But we will always remember you and your sequined prime.

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Vintage Clothing, Inside Out

I’ve always been a vintage clothing fan. From modest antique fairs and vintage clothing-stocked lofts in New England as a teenager, to today in New Zealand.  So one thing I’ll be doing here is posting items from my vintage clothing collection, assembled over 20+ years.

My relationship with sewing has always been more ambivalent. My mom taught me the sewing basics – then declined to go much further with me, even though she used to sew wedding dresses for a living. I fumbled on myself, sewing some Garb back in ye Dayes When I Wore Ye Renaissance Fayre Garb. Later, I  took sewing lessons with my friend Gilraen, who is now a seamstress supreme, sewing most of her own wardrobe. Me, I’m still learning, throwing together knit dresses and tops, doing my own alterations.

Vintage love and sewing ambivalence combine in one activity: turning a vintage piece inside-out to see how it’s constructed. Simple-looking things astound me with their hidden detail. So I’ll post these things from the outside – and the inside.

Here’s an example – a mail-order American dress from the late 30s or early 40s. From the good old Sears Roebuck catalog, even. It’s made of a heavy, but slightly translucent, navy-violet crepe, with pink satin details overlaid with navy blue lace. It’s got two small thread belt loops, an indicator that its belt has gone missing. There’s a little sun fading on one shoulder, but otherwise it’s in decent shape.

ears Roebuck dress, hard to date - any time between the 30s and 50s.

It’s very simple looking on the outside. Maybe there was a belt at one point.

Sears Roebuck dress, upper front detailing.

But look at all the detailing on the inside.

Sears Roebuck dress, inside out front.

I think the loose threads are the result of laundering. But otherwise it is in excellent condition. Someone was taking care of a “good dress.”

Neckline and shoulder detailing of Sears Roebuck dress, inside out. Note the translucency of the crepe.

All that piecing for an inexpensive mass-produced garment!

Sears Roebuck, front skirt detailing - five panels!

Sewing is engineering, at the end of the day.

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Korean Fleece Tights!

We’re on the cusp of winter here in Wellington, NZ. For three months, we’ll be lashed by wind, rain, and sleet delivered C.O.D from Antarctica. And I know what that means.

Fleece lined tights!

After hearing about them through the style blog tom-tom drums, I headed straight to eBay. And was astonished to learn that they were available inexpensively, in a huge color range, from Korea. Stylish, chilly Korea. I took the plunge and ordered two pairs, grape and black.

Here they are:

Korean fleece tights in their polyglot wrapper

The writing on the wrapped pair is mostly in Korean. The unwrapped pair, scrunched and rubbed in my hands, feels thick, spongy, and light.

Opaque tights on the outside, tender fleece on the inside!

Frankly, I was worried about the fit. I have a definite and fulsome booty, and some tummy, too. But the tailoring on these, with their kindly extra panel and their stretch, meant that they fit perfectly. Price? $7 US a pair with free shipping anywhere in the world. Shipping to New Zealand is often punitively priced, so I really appreciated that.

The day after I received them, a friend who’s a long tall drink of water (6 feet to my 5’2″) said that she had found them, too, at a local chain department store, Farmers. They are twice as warm as regular opaque tights, but not as warm as my winter leggings. Still, it’s going to be a  leggy winter here.

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Getting Used To Blogging In Heels

It was hard to find my voice for this blog.

For about two months, I’ve been going, “Yes. OK. This weekend. Gonna get that blog up and Breaking in the new heights...running properly. Mmmm-hmmm!” And then another weekend would pass, with me commenting blithely on Facebook, on Twitter, on my Wellington, NZ-based fiction blog, doing freelance web work, lifting weights, sewing, baking, having adventures. But not doing what I meant to do: creating an online voice as a woman.

It was the other voices that made it so hard. Not yours, reader – the other voices that we all hear inside ourselves, even though they aren’t ours. The ones that we sometimes hear as the devil and angel on our shoulders. The angel was saying, “That introduction of yours is intellectually pretentious! Immodest!” while the devil whispered, “It’s all  too much for them, you’re too weird, they’ll never understand.”

It took some work to claim inside myself that I had the right to a space where I could talk about my femme side. With other femmes. A place to be playful and thoughtful at the same time. I wanted a ladyblog, damn it!

What I think of as a ladyblog isn’t just “women in social media.” It’s a specific online feminine presentation for the female gaze, the female voice for female listeners about what we want to talk about. This doesn’t mean that a lot of ladyblogs aren’t totally terrifying. Either someone is presenting a groomed, branded, styled persona, edited for taste and appeal, or they are serving forth nigh-insane levels of compulsive disclosure about topics like marrying, mommying, or making. I’m too clumsy for one, too private for the other. What will I bring you? We’ll find out.

A quiet, substantial portion of the ladyblog audience is on the queer continuum – I was touched and inspired by the out and proud discussions in one of my favorite style blogs, Already Pretty, in this discussion of butch style.  And on another favorite, You Look Fab, the forum members encouraged a man exploring how to present well in a dress. Just because we’re queer doesn’t mean we don’t want to talk about vintage hats or getting the right swirl on a cupcake. (The wrong swirl? Oy!) I wanted a blog that included this up front. Serving it as part of femme realness.

And here it is.