WHAT IS THIS I DON'T EVEN.
Article
4 comments

Moody Antipodean Dreams of NZ Style

I feel like talking about style geography for a couple of posts. What is New Zealand style? My overseas friends ask me, sometimes. I think of breezy, pure-faced beauties, I give them names and imaginary lives.

Angela lives in central Auckland and transposes a clean, minimalist beachiness onto rich-girl dressing….

Aroha lives in West Auckland or Waiheke and drapes her lanky limbs in avant-garde merino, feather-trimmed woven-flax, and large jade or bone jewelry…

Winona lives in Wellington, her hair chopped into an artful bob against the Wellington gales, and is delicately quirky in hand-made hats and brooches and clever sundresses…

None of them wear enough lipstick. But the clothes dreamed up by New Zealand designers fit their straight up-and-down, tubular-belle  bodies beautifully.

Oh, how I dream of edgy New Zealand fashion. Of drifting around and hanging my Bill Hammond paintings while draped in a Cybele tunic. Wearing radical Ricochet or strapping Minnie Cooper or Minx shoes on my feet. But I am confounded by fit. They don’t make clothes for hourglass figures here. For a petite hourglass, Ricochet pants gap at the waist and the extra ankle length slumps on the ground. Minnie Cooper stopped making shoes in my foot size, and Minx never did. Cybele’s stuff – on my imaginary beautiful frenemies Angela and Aroha, it looks like a moody Antipodean dream, but not on me.

The white tunic top with the twist in it makes me especially sad.

Oh elegantly draped Antipodean casual-expensive style. WHY DO YOU TORMENT ME SO.

I sat down to think of an NZ clothing supplier that I like, that suits me. And the one I came up with is Australian. I rather adore Cue, because the beautiful clothes, for once, fit me reasonably well. Somewhere in Australia, saying “Crikey, mate” over her Foster’s and a kangaroo steak, is an hourglass fit model hired by Cue.

Once in a while I’ll thrift up something from a Kiwi designer that works. From Workshop, or Kate Sylvester, or defunct designer lines like Glory and DNA. Short and hourglassy, I have luck in Wellington at Tempt, at Duncan and Prudence, and at Good Score. When I lived closer, Moa Boutique in Auckland let me live the dream of a modicum of NZ style and good fit.

I’ll go back there again someday. In the meantime, I’ll dream an Antipodean dream…

Article
4 comments

When decor is up for debate

In early January, my guest room got repainted with a cream ceiling and palest ashes-of-roses walls. But at my house, the post-repaint luminosity and the new gate latch goes unnoticed. People are too busy reliably flipping out about three or four decor elements.

At the end of the day, the details of our homes are there for us, not for our visitors. The things we love give us daily pleasure when we live amongst them, just as the spin of a Tibetan prayer wheel generates good energy. “Your apartment, it’s like your skin,” a friend of mine once said. And just as we are encouraged to care for yet reclaim our own bodies, we should feel equally comfortable doing whatever we want with the spaces we live in. Whether that’s the right wall color, a coffee table balanced on an engine, or the Victorian taxidermy turtle dish placed just so.

Taxidermy

Taxidermy is one of my long-term fascinations. In my living room, there are two pieces of taxidermy: an assemblage of birds and a red deer fawn, known as the “Fawn of Satan” due to its evil, knowing expression. Small children go right up to the fawn, begging to pet it. Adults get stuck examining the birds. Revulsion, fascination, and questions of legality come up. A tastemaker I know declared, “Two pieces of taxidermy is all right. Any more is creepy.” If I ever find one of those Victorian turtle dishes at the right time, I’m afraid the room will officially become creepy. You may find it so already…

If you put flowers next to the taxidermy, it's less evil

The birds are all, I was told, Australian interlopers to NZPoignantly, people didn’t pay half as much attention to the taxidermy when my cat was alive. Living nature trumps the dead. But when it comes to human attention, even dead, preserved nature trumps the 8 pictures and two shelves of bizarre objects that are also in this room. Evolutionary psychology in action.

After a visit to my house, if somebody likes me, they forward me taxidermy links forevermore. Keep ’em coming, my lovelies, especially to sites like Ravishing Beasts. And just as Bon Bon Rocher receives boudoir-themed gifts, I get “mad naturalist” ones. Stingray spines, boxes of shells, souvenirs from the La Brea Tar Pits museum, Neil Pardington’s Vault exhibit catalog for my birthday, to my delight. Last year a friend of mine gave me this carefully preserved weta, which I have placed temporarily in this bell jar, like the treasure it is.

The bell jar used to have a clock in it. I'm working on the base.

Nude Photos

Are nude or pin-up photos ever tasteful? Are they tasteful when they’re nudes of yourself, of your lover, or of a stranger or friend? What about full-color baroque-frame pin-ups compared to artsy black and white? There’s a huge discussion on the topic here at Metafilter. For the time being, I’ve applied the “Rule of Two” to the nude photos…even though a third one is framed up.

Do you notice the subtle warmth imparted by the slightly rose-hued wall? Or are you all OMG NAKED PHOTOS?

If you are worried about children seeing your nude/pin-up photos, there’s an easy solution. Just put some taxidermy in the same room, closer to a child’s eye level. Your nude photos are now invisible to anyone who hasn’t reached puberty!

Dan McCarthy Print

Poster art and screenprints are another of my long-term loves, and lots of my visitors share the love for this Dan McCarthy print. Which surprises and delights me. I never knew so many people shared my taste for skeletons, bees, and dinosaur skeletons, combined into a gracious statement on environmental decay and extinction. I got this for $30 online when it first came out.

Dan McCarthy print, "Shared Memory: Pollinators", 2008

There are two testaments to this print’s power: the many discussions about bee colony collapse we’ve had at my dining table, and the fact that nobody has ever commented on the fact that the room that has this print is missing its skirting boards/baseboards.

Since Dan McCarthy made this print, his art has gone in a completely different direction – his web site is here, but a lot of his earlier prints can be found through third-party sellers.

Some day I’ll do a post on my retro kitchen, but that’s another story…

Ooops, was this your skirt?
Article
0 comment

Producing A Burlesque Rainbow

Burlesque dancers at an LGBQT pride event. How cool would that be?

Holding that thought led me to produce a burlesque act for the first time.

Wellington, NZ’s Out in the Square LGBQT pride event wanted acts. Wellington’s burlesque community has lots of talented dancers.  As the producer, what did I do to bring them together? First, I  developed the concept for an act. Second, I contacted local dancers through a mailing list. Once we had dancers interested and available, I contacted the Out in the Square committee with our proposal. They wanted to know how long the act would be and what it would entail, and I was able to tell them.

To make the act relate to LGBQT pride, the concept was based on a human rainbow flag. We decided to have a pink dancer to fill out the rainbow, and found out later that pink used to be included in the rainbow flag, but was dropped when the  fabric became unavailable for producing rainbow pride flags!

Dress rehearsal with our Burlesque Rainbow

Dancers left to right: Salacious Sugar, Scarlett De’light, The Deity Dollicious, Penny Pins, Atomic Ruby, Winnie Chester, Fanciforia Foxglove, and Allegra Valentine

Back to production. Once the wheels were rolling, I did a lot of communicating about what would happen, when. For the act, I framed up base choreography and music concepts and sourced props. On the day, I picked up 32 helium balloons, and liased with Out in the Square to get the dancers  and music where they needed to be, when they needed to be there.

The support of local burlesque dance teacher Miss La Belle made all the difference – she hooked us up with rehearsal space, provided one of the music pieces (a perfect fruity 1950s instrumental) and helped us refine the choreography, along with all the dancers. Crystal Mischief edited the music together just right for us, and Honey Suckle helped with dancer wrangling and stepped out as the stage kitten. This involved retrieving the stage items for 8 dancers in front of a crowd of hundreds of strangers, outside! Thank you, ladies, it couldn’t have happened without you.

We kept the act modest, on the chorus-girl side of burlesque, to meet the event’s “family friendly” requirements. This last one may be why there isn’t more burlesque at LGBQT pride events in the USA that I can find – it seems more common at events in Europe, even in Asia.

Ooops, was this your skirt?

Note the midriff coverage, skirts and boas, and the colored stockings making the dancers more modest.

Before this, I had been to a burlesque event staged in daylight, and the effect was…cruel. Instead of dancers being overwhelmed by space and sky and daylight, I wanted them to interact with it. The solution was helium balloons, which turned the whole sky into part of the show.

You can't take the sky from me!

Very, very, VERY popular with the photographers.

On the day, we were blessed with the best possible weather – sunny or a bit overcast, with minimal breeze (almost unheard of in Wellington, but it happened.) The Out in the Square staff surrendered a dressing trailer to us, folded our music into the show, and courteously read out the names of each of the dancers. The act had the best possible reception, with a cheering crowd and the emcee calling the dancers out for an interview.

Getting interviewed

Salacious Sugar fields a spontaneous interview from an Out in the Square emcee.

Offstage, I was asked some questions…

Wait, what were you doing?

I started out as “the person who thought this would be a good idea”, and it was easier to say “producer,” despite the visions of Max Bialystock I associate with that word. In the end we had a 4 person production team for 8 dancers, and we had 2 long group rehearsals. I know the dancers practiced at home, too, on top of arranging their costumes. All this for a 4-and-a-half minute act.

I’ll buy that. Those dancers were amazing. Can I get them to dance at my event?

You sure can, the main contact is Miss La Belle, here.

Why weren’t *you* on stage?

Out in the Square had talented emcees aplenty. I may make my burlesque dance debut at some point, but this time around, the act came together well with the talent that stepped forwards – and either had the colored costumes available, or were willing to put them together. Costuming is a big issue for a troupe!

Were the dancers on TV?

Yes, they started the segment on TVNZ 1. Click here to view it – their part begins at about 12:44. Their beauty had a purpose, too: the rest of the segment used the Pride event to stage a discussion about school bullying of queer youth and queer rights in NZ. And maybe more people watched that segment than usual, because it began with a spectacle of dancing women?

 

 

A beauty in her boudoir
Article
3 comments

A Burlesque Boudoir

I’m in a Terribly House and Garden phase here. And yesterday, I had a real treat; visiting the delicous burlesque dancer Bon Bon Rocher at home, and seeing her burlesque boudoir.

A boudoir…a powder room…a dressing room…a ‘retreat’ of over-the-top, unapologetic femininity, to one’s personal taste. Bon Bon’s own words describe the charm of the boudoir. “It’s like a little piece of the things you used to see – your mum getting ready at the dressing table in the bedroom, not standing up in the bathroom. I get ready in there before I go out anywhere.  Instead of being “oh god, I have to rush,” at a dressing table, I find time to sit and reflect and celebrate being a girl, having such wonderful opportunities. I do everything there, hair, makeup, cleansing.”

A beauty in her boudoir - BonBon Rocher says hello

Bon Bon had a very clear vision of what she wanted for a boudoir: a space for her wardrobe, costumes, accessories, and grooming. And, sharing the rest of the house with her partner and teenage son, she took the opportunity to create a space that expressed her femininity. An essential part of this was finding a graceful Queen Anne dressing table, complete with stool and side tables. Bon Bon found the perfect set – in Christchurch, via TradeMe. The room’s ample natural light, the petite dressing table, and the wide mirror combine to create an ideal space for getting ready.

Before its femme transformation, the room was one of those awkward small bedrooms featured in older New Zealand houses, a mere 2 meters x 3 meters. Bon Bon and and her partner renovated the room in one weekend. The paint color is Resene Cupid, and her skilled partner affixed the vinyl decal onto the wall. Along with the dressing table and a matching drawer set, a clothing rack and clever use of existing storage complete the space.

The vinyl decal adding wall interest

The room is “full of memories and friendship.” The lamp from Shady Lady was a cherished Christmas present. “And people gave me lovely things when they heard I was setting up a boudoir – this perfume atomizer is from a friend.”

Lace, roses, perfume, and BonBon Rocher's hands

This lamp has better legs than I do.

Future plans for the room include some art and, of course, a chandelier!

We lingered in the pretty room; the space was just right for two women to chat, the afternoon light gentle through the lace curtains. Bon Bon reflected, “I think I dress better, more thoughtfully, because I have my boudoir. It’s inspiring, and it’s easier to organize my clothes and costumes.”

BonBon Rocher at home

Bon Bon will emerge from her rosy retreat, groomed to perfection, to perform at the Glitter Party in Wellington on January 22nd, and she’ll have more news soon at her Facebook page.

For more dressing room inspiration, here’s a post at Apartment Therapy with eight modern dressing rooms, and another gallery with nine dressing rooms. None of them seem to be having as much fun as BonBon, though!

Article
3 comments

Dewy or Dowager?

Can you see both the young girl and the old dowager?The new year is tomorrow, and we’re all a little older. At my age – I’m still young – no, I’m old, I’m over it -  I can’t keep track any more. I’m the walking version of this classic optical-illusion drawing. Am I the dewy girl or the dowager? Is there anything in between?

According to high fashion – no, there isn’t. Fashion’s darlings right now are lovely young things in the flowers of youth, like Tavi Gevinson, and “delicious old darlings of about a hundred”, to grab a Nancy Mitford quote and take a peek at Advanced Style. It’s the years in the middle that are tricky. Colette had a delicious aside about aging beauty in her novel Claudine Married.

“It’s in Paris that you see the most fascinating faces whose beauty is waning – women of forty, frantically made-up and tightlaced, who have kept their delicate noses and eyes like a young girl’s. Women who let themselves be stared at with a mixture of pleasure and bitterness.”

The collision of time and youthful beauty has inspired more modern writing, too. Mistress Matisse has Random and Disjointed Thoughts On Being A Pretty Girl (NSFW) and acknowledges the privilege and unfairness of it all. A “nerdy frog who became a princess” after some appearance fixes is flummoxed by the power of beauty and the time that polished, modern beauty requires. Elizabeth Wurtzel, once a willowy beauty who brought the drama, now looking good “for her age”, reflects bitterly on her lost privilege and how she abused it.

A lot of the “mature style” out there doesn’t speak to me – maybe because of my own awkward age, maybe because of regional differences. I’d come across as stuffy and overdressed in the Hermes-garnished ensembles from the blog Une femme d’une certain age, though I do admire her writing and thoughts on “going forwards.” In Wellington, my 40something contemporaries are spending this Antipodean summer in maxi-dresses that show off their new tattoos and cowboy boots. The quirkydorable vintage/pinup look that a lot of us admire is exemplified by such early-20s beauties as Solanah at Vixen Vintage. This blogger has advice on wearing vintage “when you’re a bit vintage yourself“; there are also thoughts on keeping longer hair as an older woman.

For this year coming up, my two main style goals are to take care of my physical infrastructure – to eat well, sleep well,get lots of exercise, and take care of “the elements” level details – and to finish some of that sewing I’m always talking about. I look forwards to spending autumn (my favorite season, still to come) in a soft teal dress and brown boots, but I’ve got to make the dress first.

A last note for the new year: the amusing I Sleep Easier Now, a little Cole Porter ditty. “When I was prettier, when I was prettier, in bed I did not read Whittier. I sleep easier now.”

Reindeer games, anyone?
Article
2 comments

A Burlesque Christmas

On December 3rd, I went to the Christmas party for Miss La Belle’s House of Burlesque. Here’s some style shots from the festivities!

Reindeer games, anyone?Atomic Ruby, or, as we called her for the night, “Jessica Reindeer.”

A Christmas cracker, she isFanciforia Foxglove in seasonal crimson and green!

Such a lady!The delightful Delicia Minx, elegant for evening.

More lovely than a summer's dayPenny Pins shares a vintage find with us.

Absolutely ravishing, dahlingScarlett DeLight has the best champagne smile!

This blonde beauty is ready for the earth to moveHoney Suckle is as smart as she is beautiful – she picked out those particular shoes after a 5.+ Richter earthquake rattled Wellington earlier that night. “How high do YOU want your heels to be in a quake?”

A quiet moment...beautiful on the inside, tooPossibly my favorite image of the evening: Busty la Belle, having a sweetly pensive moment before performing. What’s under that delicious vintage robe? You had to be there to see it.

Article
6 comments

The Mondo Online Shopping Post

It is time. It is time for the Global Online Shopping Post. My in-box is filling up with freakish pre-season discounts. The gift-giving season is around the corner. And “Where’d you get that?” “I got it…online!” is my endless refrain.

The dress here is the Sadie by Trashy Diva.Yes, online global shopping brings up issues of consumerism and of global-versus-local. But sometimes I just want a chartreuse dress, or shoes that fit and don’t cost a fortune, or some wackadoo precisely sized jewelry finding.

Think Before You Shop

It’s easy to get carried away and stuck with lemons via online shopping. I try to keep my eye on items that have a good return-on-investment for me. For example, I have an unusual shoe size, so I get greater selection and value when I shop for shoes online.

Still, I’ve bought cosmetics, bed linens, vintage accessories, dresses, fabric, specialty craft items, jewelry findings, eyeglasses, loose gemstones…the list goes on and on.

Important Online Shopping Tips

  • Search For Reviews. Many sites now include starred reviews of items. Where this isn’t the case, thank you, bloggers and Facebookers of the world, for reviewing every last item you purchase.
  • Use Sales To Your Advantage. Antipodean shoppers, search for and hit those “Sale” and “Clearance” pages. You’ll be ordering discounted items for the previous summer/winter that will arrive in time for your spring/fall.
  • Search For Coupons and Discounts To Apply. This is so easy. A Google search for “retailer name” and any of the following words – code, promotion, coupon – may reveal a discount coupon for your order, which you apply for an additional discount.
  • How Long Should It Take To Get A Package In NZ? From Asia and Europe: Two – three weeks. Items from Singapore or Hong Kong can come faster than that. From Australia: One week. From the USA: Two weeks.
  • Source Gifts For Overseas Folks Overseas. Living in NZ, I order gifts for my American family from USA vendors, and for my UK family from UK vendors. This way, more of my gift budget goes towards the present itself, and less towards its shipping.
  • When In Doubt Go A Size Up. Too big can often be fixed, too small usually can’t. This is frustrating if you’ve gone online for size issues.
  • For US Shipping, If Possible, Ask For USPS International Priority Mail. This is the most affordable way to get items shipped from the US A- check the rates here. Clothes and shoes aren’t, as a rule, fragile, so this is a good way to go with Etsy and eBay vendors. This box shown below is your friend when it comes to shipping a garment or fabric from overseas.

Say hello to your US mail friend.

Behind the cut: how to get items shipped to you, and The List of Retailers, including lingerie, pretty retro dresses, and much much more, plus Buyer Beware advice. When I say mondo, I mean mondo![Read more]

p.s. All the keys in this bowl belong to beautiful women.
Article
3 comments

When It’s So Bad It’s Good

There’s a category of vintage clothing summed up by this Venn diagram:

Note that the overlap area isn't large and is murky.I’m a sucker for items that fall into the murky, “so bad it’s good” area in the middle. Mouton coats. Marbled silk prints. Giant pussycat bows. Hats that are ready for lift-off. Brooches that can be seen from outer space. These items have often survived because they’re so distinctive or over-the-top that they got worn once or twice and then got put away.

It’s also illustrated by this vintage 70s dress that I thrifted:

p.s. All the keys in this bowl belong to beautiful women.

"I knew it was going to be a great party when I had to get a bigger bowl for all the keys!"

The dress seems to have been custom-made in Asia in the ’70s. Only the ’70s can explain the totally bizarre, yet very high quality, stretch silk twill, and the enormous collar. Based on the total lack of a waist, it seems to have been made for an edgy matron – I’ll be wearing it with a belt and a slip in the future.

The dress has no zipper and pulls over the head. Easy-on, easy-off.

"Whose keys are these? And which way is the waterbed?"

The dress photos are thanks to Wellington photographer Diana Villiers – see more of her work here.

Leona Edminston, a shiny place.
Article
3 comments

A Peek At Sydney Style

Back from my trip! With some observations about Australian style seen through the lens of Sydney.

Aussie fashion was in full force due to the combination of spring and the Melbourne Cup (see the apotheosis of wee-hats-and-dresses racing style here and here.) While I was in Sydney, I took the chance to check out a Leona Edmiston boutique. When I go overseas,  I try to check out things I’ve liked online, to see if they’re really any good. In person, the retro-flavored dresses live up to their online promise. The designer favors a polyester fabric, but it’s premium and feels like silk. The garments’ construction is as good as the dresses from Diane Von Furstenberg, which I also checked out while I was there. And they have crystal bowls of Toblerone on the counter at their boutiques.

Leona Edminston, a shiny place.

Street style was…average. Perhaps because Sydney beauty is not about dressing well so much as being bikini-ready with swathes of long hair. I wasn’t blown away as I was walking around, not in the central city nor in hipster Newtown. But give Sydneysiders a special occasion and an air-conditioned venue and they bring it. I went to a burlesque evening, Jitterbug Club, and every man, woman, and person in gender transition there was dressed and groomed to the nines. I went a little casual, and I regretted it.

One exception to the unremarkable street style was maxi dresses. Everyone in Sydney is wearing fluid, knit-fabric maxi dresses. Young women, older women, the occasional man. They are worn very simply, with flat shoes and few accessories. Ezibuy has a bunch at a range of prices, but they’re also a good, easy sewing project. Some ladies added a retro twist with a big 7os hat and sunglasses, or bright lips and a long pearl or tassel necklace.

In Australia, I admired pretty dresses. But…I spent my money on skin care items. Because there are some really excellent ones coming out of Australia. NZ skin care products are fantastic, but I haven’t yet found a line that isn’t lavishly rich. Trilogy, Karen Farley, Antipodes – all very rich. The legendary Hema line cuts to the chase with most of its products being entirely oil-based. Australian skin care products tread a finer line between providing skin nutrition and not making me look like an oil slick. And the Australians have an unbeatable diversity of sunblocks – important to me, because there is skin cancer in my family, and I spend eight months of the year marinated in sunblock. My personal favorite is SunSense Daily Face, which can be mail-ordered here in NZ but is easier to get in Australia.

Beyond sunblock, there are Aesop skin care shops everywhere you look in Sydney and Melbourne, and there’s a reason. This shit works. Their light Mandarin Hydrating Cream is just what my iffy skin needs. They gave me a sample of the Parsley Seed Eye Serum, which smooth out a crepey spot on one of my eyelids. If you don’t know what I mean by a “crepey spot”, continue to revel heedlessly in your youth. If you do know…well, you know what to do.

And I fell for their marketing ploy that if they put a large apothecary jar of tubes on the register counter, someone who is a sucker for large apothecary jars would dip their hand in and observe the products. I know this, and yet – ooooo, apothecary jar!  Anyhow, Aesop marketers, you are forgiven, since this ploy led to me trying your Rosehip Seed Lip Cream. Which smooths out one’s lips greaselessly.

Last Aussie style note: had a professional dinner one night while I was there and somebody noted, “I love to travel to Wellington. My wife buys so many clothes while she’s there.” Intrigued, I asked why. “All the clothes here (in Sydney) are for 20-year-olds!” They found the women’s clothing from the NZ designers and shops to be more mature and flexible. Score one for NZ design!

Somewhere there's a drink with an umbrella in it for me.
Article
0 comment

Charm School Is In Session

Somewhere there's a drink with an umbrella in it for me.

This is waiting for me. Out there. Somewhere. Photo courtesy of Kevin H., used under Creative Commons.

Almost done with the Elements series! Before post 4, about creating events, if you want more, you can now attend Frockabilly Charm School. Learn about social grace and personal style. Session 1 of six classes is in session from October 27th in Petone. Details here.

Speaking of etiquette, have you seen the web site and book Gothic Charm School, by delightful “cupcake Goth” Jillian Venters? (She’s a tech writer too!)

A scientific study that proposes that women in a medium amount of makeup come across as more competent at work is thought-provoking. Note that the highest level of “glamour” makeup came across as “attractive but less trustworthy.”

Related to this, the pin-up cupcakes got a shout-out on the fashion site Thread. Thank you again, A La Mode!

Alternahome blog Offbeat Home is seeking agnostic/feminist homemaking blogs. Is this you? I’m house proud but I’m too busy to tell you about it right now. House tour next year, once a project I’m working on is done.

Why the umbrella drink, you may ask? The next week or so is going to be occupied by me taking a trip. On a boat. To some islands. Where the tiki drinks come from (my favorite drink story is about the Dr. Funk.) There’ll also be a stop at the Jitterbug Club in Sydney.  (I’m narrowly missing the garden-themed Burlesque Ball.) Travel reports when I get back, I promise.