Article
5 comments

Perfume Interview with Judith of Unseen Censer, Part I

August’s interview is with the perfumista Judith of the fragrance blog Unseen Censer.  Not only is Judith discriminating and witty, she is generous – when I asked her for some perfume recommendations, she sent me some samples that blew me away and opened my “nose” to what perfume could be. I’ve known for years how wonderful she is. You’re just meeting her, so here are three of her blog posts to get you better acquainted:

I asked her, “What do you want to tell the world?” as her last question. But her response was so vivid and important that I am moving it up. Because if you only read one thing she has to say, it is this.

I’m reading The Emperor of Scent (fascinating book about Luca Turin, who wrote Perfumes: The Guide, and also by Chandler Burr, the New York Times perfume critic), and one of Turin’s observations really struck me.

Whenever he starts talking about perfume, people start laughing or tittering or smiling or squirming – they’re *embarrassed*. There’s something about scent that is bodied. People today, at least in America, are embarrassed that things ever do smell, much less that their bodies would smell, even if they smell good.

This is an appalling state of affairs. Embrace scent and you embrace the physical. That is a powerful feminist message. Be polite in your enjoyment of scent but never be ashamed. With or without perfume, you smell good; and much of the world smells good, and you should enjoy your sense of smell.

Vintage Diorisimo

Judith put together this montage of a favorite vintage bottle and, “The photos are of my great-great aunt Tessa and my great-grandmother Retta. Aren’t they beautiful?”

This interview is split into two parts. Today is Part I. Behind the cut, her perfume story, attending grand-scale perfume events in NYC, the ethics of buying online vs. buying at the store counter,  thoughts on perfume and New Zealand, men and perfume, and, oh, tons more. [Read more]

I had the greatest difficulty in finding a pretty Romney brunette who was not Lady Hamilton - my senior friend would have disapproved tremendously of Lady Hamilton!
Article
2 comments

“Ah, Perishable Clay”

I had the greatest difficulty in finding a pretty Romney brunette who was not Lady Hamilton - my senior friend would have disapproved tremendously of Lady Hamilton!This relative of mine,

Was she seventy and nine

When she died?

By this canvas may be seen

How she looked at seventeen, as a bride…

Were Romney’s limning true,

What a lucky dog were you,

Grandpapa!

To My Grandmother, Suggested by a Picture by Mr. Romney, by Frederick Locker-Lampson

A month and a half ago, the senior lady who I was visiting as a volunteer died. Naturally, I went to her funeral. I had only known her aged, frail, and modest.  Once in a while she’d reveal a glimmer of her past, for example, that she and her husband used to adore going out dancing in the 1940s and early 1950s. At her funeral, assembled by her family,  was a board of photographs from her entire life. As a light-footed blonde bride, she resembled one of the most petite and talented burlesque dancers I know.

I was irresistibly reminded of my own grandmother – also old, also tiny, though still alive, with a rose-cheeked sturdiness about her. Visiting her several years ago, I stumbled upon another one of those jaw-dropping old photos, one that had captured her as a 1930s stunner with a knowing glance beneath her coronet of hair. Boldly, I asked her, “What was it like to be so beautiful?” She replied, “I was never that beautiful. I just did the best I could with what I had.”

From these two piercing moments, and the time it took for this entry to ferment from my quiet sadness, I learned.

I learned that grief takes a while. That I should keep old photographs, and take new ones. Making time for seniors is worthwhile. And doing the best I can with what I’ve got runs in the family.

We’ll let Fred have the last word here, as a very fitting farewell:

In travail, as in tears,

With the fardel of her years,

Overpast,

With mercy she was borne

Where the weary and the worn

Are at rest.

Article
2 comments

Friday Follies: Pause for Breath

19th-century epergne. One day I shall own one of these exercises in glass-based dementia.My blog crush of the week is the adorable Dramatis Personae.

If you thought Peggy Carter in the Captain America movie seemed improbable, look at real-life gun-wielding bombshell Nancy Wake, operative known as “The White Mouse” because of her ability to escape from, oh, the Gestapo during WWII.

The My Body Gallery is a mindblowing project where you can see what real women actually look like. Phenomenal! I’ll be sending a photo in.

Besame cosmetics, in retro colors, are now available in New Zealand. The Vanity Case will come to your abode and do a vintage style party, if you so desire. Ordinarily I am meh about “social selling” events – it seems harsh to ask one’s friends to one’s abode to spend money so that you benefit. Still, Besame!

FashionNZ has had a site makeover and is now a lot easier to navigate.  Lots of designer lookbooks, if you want to see what’s up in the Antipodes. They have 6 or 7 giveaways every month for NZ and overseas residents.

Antique fair in Lower Hutt this weekend. A reliable source for well-priced vintage accessories and jewelry, with dealers from all over. Maybe I’ll find the epergne of my dreams…

 

Article
0 comment

Perfume and I: A Nose That Found Itself

A vintage perfume atomizer from my collection. The perfume is a bit cloudy because it had just been transported on a cold winter day!This is a tale of a nose that found itself. Of the ideas and dreams projected onto perfume, of mistakes that were made, and how I learned what personal fragrance is really about.

My mother wore perfume; her two “signature” scents were Anais Anais and Fidji. I vaguely remember her scented and ready to go out. Is it even my memory, or is it such a trope, something I’ve heard about so many times, that it seems like a memory? Implanted into my brain by 20th-century fragrance advertising?

As a teen laden with glasses and braces, I yearned after atomizer bottles, potpourri (it was the ’80s) and incense (I repeat: the ’80s!). Around age 18, I was given a bottle of Crabtree and Evelyn’s rose fragrance Evelyn, and felt a milestone of femininity was achieved.

In the ’90s, I was young and broke. So were all my friends. Perfume was something that happened to other people. From my compeers, I caught the occasional whiff of patchouli or vetiver oil.

Then, in 2003, something made personal fragrance relevant for my demographic: Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs. They made the oil vials of the ’90s sophisticated with fresh blends and brilliant nomenclature. I went to some trouble to get a set of 10 sample scent “imps.” Unfortunately, all of them, applied to my skin, smelled like that potpourri from the ’80s. Except for R’lyeh, from their Lovecraft collection. Who knew that aeons of evil under the cold deeps smelled like grapefruit?  Frustrated, I started sniffing other fragrances again. Diptyque provided the olfactory opulence I’d dreamed of. I invested in a bottle of the now-defunct smoky rose fragrance Opôné. Probably Diptyque discontinued it for a reason, because every man who got a whiff of it recoiled.

Remembering my total perfume failure, I asked a guy recently whether men really, actually, liked perfume on les femmes. He bit his lip. “Well,” he said, “the thing is, if a woman’s applied perfume right, you can only smell it when you’re close enough to kiss her. And either it’s a success or it’s not. I mean, she’s just wearing it for herself, ya know?”

He nailed it.

And he reminded me of the two things that helped me, at last, learn to really appreciate perfume, instead of floundering in scented waves.

The first thing was so simple: focusing on scents I liked that didn’t come in bottles. Breathing deeply when I leave my abode in the spring, to inhale green humid coolness overlain by the honey of lemonwood or manuka trees in bloom. Plunging my nose into roses – often I’m disappointed by the lightest smell of celery or printer paper. Nuzzling clean laundry or my cat, who smells like fur.  In the kitchen, wanting to rub myself all over with whole vanilla beans, or handfuls of freshly-roasted cacao nibs.  I discovered I liked fresh, green scents, and warm touchable ones with some musk. I’m still a big ol’ sap for rose fragrances, too.

The second thing was a generous friend who reached out to share the art of perfume with me. And she is so great that I will be interviewing her here, to be published on August 15th! To get a sniff of her take on perfume, and a preview of the interview, visit her scent blog.

This aquamarine negligee set almost glows in the dark.
Article
4 comments

Teenage Mutant Vintage Lingerie

My vintage collection and I were invited to a Digitalpix glamour shoot. Oh happy day! I thought I’d bring something special. “Special” in lots of ways. Because vintage lingerie can be pretty demented. Take this demure “bed jacket” modeled here by Phoenix Flame.

The pink puff sleeves? The lace and bows? Surely designed to hide a mind like a steel trap.

Do not be deceived by the lace and ribbons: Agent Phoenix Flame is extremely dangerous.

Courtesy of Digitalpix Photography and model Phoenix Flame.

And then there’s this. On the way to Las Vegas in 1964, some revelers tossed a pair of synthetic panties out of their convertible into the Nevada desert. One nuclear test later, this lace and nylon negligee set was found clinging fetchingly to a tumbleweed.

It almost, but not quite, glows in the dark. Guest photographer Andrew used a soft focus to lessen the impact:

I feel a pleasant glow when I wear this. Is that happiness or my DNA warping?

Courtesy of superb guest photographer Andy!

Did it give me superpowers?

I BELIEVE I CAN FLY

Captured in flight by Digitalpix

Well, I think so!

Article
0 comment

Friday Follies: Did Somebody Say Boudoir?

1927 evening gown, as drawn by Vera of http://www.verabee.com on "Draw This Dress"

Draw This Dress or, fashion from old people Delightful blog where talented artists draw vintage dresses.  I’m very taken with Vera Brosgol’s work – her prints are for sale here.

From the webcomic Dresden Kodak – mad science girl’s path to “gaining a diseased mind fit only for science.” I too went through the “Sign Your Name Only In Tengwar” phase.

Crusin’ Australia has vintage repro shoes and does $12 shipping worldwide. Sizes 5 to 12. Made of leather. Suede dancing soles available. This pretty much solves all my shoe whining issues.

Dunbar and Sloane, the Wellington auction house, is having a significant “vintage costume and boudoir accessories” auction.  Massive online catalog is available, in-person viewing starts from Sunday August 7th. I don’t need anything but I’ll go along to see.  “Finesse Emerald Green Leather Clutch Purse together with green kid Gloves.” Hmmm. “Three Vintage Unopened Pairs of Stockings together with Priestley’s velvet talcum powder tin, unopened.” Awww! “Selection of Vintage Sewing and Knitting Patterns.” Hwaaaaa! Thanks to Tamara of Seven is a Journey for this hot tip!

 

Article
2 comments

Weather-Defying Style

Lots of cities around the world are now visible through the choosy lenses of style blogs. Auckland has one (not-in-NZ readers, note the lanky limbs and neutral color palettes). Wellington is poorly represented in this genre. So I thought that the Grandeur and Frivolity event this past Saturday would be the perfect time to snap some shots of Wellington style. And it would have been.

If the Wellington winter hadn’t bitten.

“Braving the elements” and “carefully chosen outfit” don’t go together well. Against the persistent, cold rain and wind, Wellingtonians wrap up in their time-tested trifecta of denim, polarfleece, and waterproof jackets. We show up at events chilled and blotchy and windblown, but we’re there, damn it. This Saturday the polarfleece and waterproofs did their job. The grand hall at St. Andrews was nearly full for the event, deeply impressive in this weather. On that Saturday, I wore skinny jeans over Korean fleece tights, a retro-look cardigan, and waterproof mascara. What did other people wear?

Thank you, Maggie!

Maggie is both sleek and warm with her cloche hat and cardigan

Here are three stylin’ dames who defied the weather. The first cleverly gets around what the wind and rain do to hair with a saucy 1920s look hat. Her outfit was shades of navy, not black, which set off the peach cardigan beautifully. The second one shouts against the grey weather in her red dress – her ruffled scarf and flower necklace evoke a summery flower lei, too. And a third had an enchanting newsprint raincoat, with an equally delicious black and white ensemble beneath it.

Thank you Jocelyn!

I enjoyed talking to sweet Jocelyn, who rocked her red dress and accessories

Thank you, pretty ladies! This was my first time taking style photos on the fly, and, gaaaah, I learned a lot. Pretty ladies, you deserve way better photography than this, and I’m working on it for the future. As the Buddhists at a nearby monastery say, “This is all just another experience…”

The crowd lingered afterwards, entranced by the opportunity to get a closer look at the intricate costumes. I was glad to get some close-up peeks myself, especially of the glorious silver gown worn by the event’s costume historian, Leimomi Oakes, and of the exquisitely constructed pet-en-l’aire worn by the model representing Madame du Barry. For more about the costumes, check out The Dreamstress’s own blog.

Thank you Riah King-Wall!

Riah triumphs in her newsprint raincoat


Article
3 comments

Go Put On A Sweater

Some randomness, because I can do that: a sweater, “chilly climate” and feminism, and the guy I wish was my gay BFF.

That Cue leopard print - it's like this one - except with a dark brown background.Aussie boutique chain Cue has a just-right dark brown leopard print cardigan right now. On the sale racks, even! It’s one for the petites with its cropped length and 3/4 sleeves. Petite = person under 5’3″ or 160 cms tall. As a shorty – I mean, a “petite” – I find Cue’s clothes fit me reasonably well overall. If you’re taller, Ezibuy has some grey leopard items and this similar sweater (XS only left.)

On a related note, I never believe any compliment that comes from a sales person.  Just on general principle…

Most of my workplaces are techy and there’s a high ratio of men to women. Sometimes, as at my current place of employment, it’s fine. At other places, even without overt sexism or harassment, something felt off. Turns out there’s a name for it, the “chilly climate,” and everyone involved can change it.

Authorial enthusiasm this week is for the queer writer Edmund White. His painful honesty – is it humility or humiliation? Something has haunted his eyes in every portrait of him, throughout his life. For an introduction to him, I recommend his autobiographical City Boy, about living and adventuring in NYC in the 70s. Then there’s his excellent, raw My Lives.  One of the more easily digestible chapters, My Women, describes the gay-man-as-woman’s-best-friend situation from the gay man’s side.

Article
0 comment

Making It Happen: Jo Coffey, Chocolatier of L’Affaire au Chocolat

The chocolate of my dreams...Jo Coffey already made itDo you have imaginary businesses? I know I do. One of them would be a chocolate boutique. Making exquisite yet amusing bon-bons. With beautifully designed boxes for the confections, and using El Rey chocolate, and …then I wake up. Oh, I’ve made chocolates at home. The simple yet messy processes of dipping strawberries and rolling truffles taught me to respect actual chocolatiers. There are two or three excellent ones in Wellington, and I’m so pleased to be able to interview one of my favorites, Jo Coffey of L’Affaire au Chocolat.

I first encountered L’Affaire au Chocolat at the City Market; the fine truffles and varietal chocolate bars made an impression of me. Finally, I made it to the store, where I was charmed, not only by the cozy refinement of the little shop, but by the master chocolatier behind it, Jo Coffey herself. There is both warmth and stainless steel behind the chocolate to make this dream of a business succeed. My purchase of a few saffron truffles one day turned into a conversation – Coffey and I are both aficionados of South American chocolate varietals –  and this interview is the follow up.

The day I went to meet with Coffey in her store, there was a constant stream of customers, saying, “I hear you’ve got the best hot chocolate in town…” And it’s true: she does. Made with simply frothed milk and a ladleful of melted fine dark chocolate, served with a dark chocolate morsel on the side,  it’s hot chocolate perfection. The serried ranks of glossy chocolates in the case became depleted as the morning went on, too.  Coffey gave me a peek behind the scenes at her chocolate vats (vats! of chocolate!) and took the time to answer these questions.

Jo Coffey, chocolatier and business owner.

Behind the cut, Coffey remembers sweets for tuppence, describes the men who buy chocolate, and shares with us why French food is suddenly everywhere, again, and how to be a more intelligent chocolate consumer.

[Read more]

Article
3 comments

Displaying a Hand Fan

The hand fan, as a woman’s daily accessory, is dead.  In its heyday, it was the equivalent of the cellphone. A device associated with expense and prestige, used to send messages, and to display wealth and popular culture, via its materials and adornments. For us today, an antique fan is a pretty, old-fashioned thing to look at. A new fan is, at best, a cute finishing touch for a goth or rockabilly ensemble, a clever wedding favor, or a dance accessory.

But there is nothing wrong with a pretty, old-fashioned thing to look at. Many old fans have a “stick” or two damaged. This reduces their value, but they’re still fine to display.

Fans should be framed to protect them from dust and UV light. A fan just stuck in a rectangular frame is a sad thing, and it is best displayed with some consideration for its shape. Good solutions include:

My British grandmother gave me a simple old Canton ivory fan. I’m not sure if she used this to cool off during her Hong Kong days, or if one of our earlier ancestors did. I was very taken by the butterflies. (Moths? Let’s say butterflies…) It had a broken “shoulder” stick, which I glued to the neighboring stick with an ivory-appropriate epoxy, and I’ve had it framed to hang in my bedroom, using Fan Framing Solution #3 above:

Old Canton ivory fan, , framed in a shadowbox with a specially cut mat. The frame is actually 1 inch deep.

The fan’s not perfect but I’m just loving it – I lie in bed and gaze happily in its general direction through my myopia. Here’s some of the detail on the fan. No way can I see this without help from my optometrist!

Canton ivory fan detail. Moth or butterfly?

Frame done by Petone Frameworks – they specialize in shadowboxes and they do laser-cut mats. (Disclaimer: I paid. Mentioning them by name because the specialty-cut mat is pretty unusual around here, and they were super lovely. The cinnabar background mat was their suggestion.)

To conclude: everything you ever wanted to know about hand fan construction and restoration. And an excellent book, The Fan: Fashion and Femininity Unfolded by Valerie Steele.  Which contains the agreeable quote, “Women are armed with Fans as Men with Swords, and sometimes do more Execution with them.” – The Spectator, 1711.