"I was a young 'un at Oogli, shy as a girl to begin/Aggie de Castrer she made me, and Aggie was clever as sin..." Poem by Rudyard Kipling, photo courtesy of Digitalpix!
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Vintage Clothing Matchmaking

"I was a young 'un at Oogli, shy as a girl to begin/Aggie de Castrer she made me, and Aggie was clever as sin..." Poem by Rudyard Kipling, photo courtesy of Digitalpix!

Both this eau de nil short kimono and the antique paper fan were gifted to me.

Comments are still streaming in over at the all-time #1 favorite post here, Grandma’s Vintage Fur. There is one poignant theme that I want to address: that of wanting second-hand, somewhat valuable, once-loved garments to have a new life. It comes up whenever I buy a “Sadie von Scrumptious” dress online or in person: the sellers are thrilled at the idea that the dress will be worn and seen.

This idea is so powerful that one vintage-dress-loving blogger’s series, The Secret Lives of Dresses, got turned into a novel. The wistful tales of these anthropomorphized garments are irresistible, and show us the drive behind playing vintage clothing matchmaker.

Sometimes a garment comes to my hands , or emerges from the wardrobe archives, that is really great…for a friend. Three tricky things can come up with this:

  • It IS used, after all – And not everybody is comfortable with used clothes.
  • It isn’t how your friend sees themselves -You think your friend looks fantastic in it, but they’re unsure. It may not be their usual color or labeled size, or it may look strange until the right person puts it on.
  • Maybe you’d like money for it – A toughie! I have had this come up twice for me with thrifting finds. Keeping finances out of the friends zone is usually for the best. Still, one time it was an item I’d been asked to look for, and the other time, if my friend hadn’t bought it somebody else would have, with such an immaculate designer item. I offered it to her with the tag on for just-reimburse-me. If I haven’t thrifted it and I do want some money, I usually post it online or talk to the people at appropriate consignment stores. They are not my friends, they are fellow business people.

I do find that playing vintage matchmaker works best with:

  • Designer items – I admit this with some reluctance, but it does give everyone a shared idea of provenance and quality.
  • Natural fiber items – Yes, polyester is veritably vintage, but it doesn’t time-travel so well.
  • Items that match a person’s aesthetic very strongly. Hard to lose here.

As a giver, be low pressure – an air of generous nonchalance is just right. And when in doubt as a receiver, either say no kindly-but-firmly, or, if you’re on the edge, give it a chance. Keep it for a season and see if it fits, or ask when you accept, “If it doesn’t work out for me, can I share it with another friend?”

Vintage matchmaking gets awkward with family. It’s when it’s family that we feel bad about saying no to the closet full of 1970s knits, or coveting the bolt of Italian silk gathering dust in that same closet. Or it’s when we are pressured to take ALL of Grandma’s vintage clothes – the ones we covet as well as the ones we don’t. (My own grandmother, by the way, was much more gracious than that – hi, Grandpenny! That’s your fan in the photo above!)

Lastly, accept that the item is going on to its new life. When you are gifting something, especially with dramatic items or whole outfits, you have your idea of what will happen to it. The new owner definitely has their own.  Would the person who gave me that mink stole be pleased that I had it converted into a scarf and used the scraps to line a cat bed? I’m not sure. Maybe if I shared my own stories about wearing the mink scarf, they’d be reconciled.

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World of Wearable Arts III: More Audience Style

Now for the second installment of my WOW 2012 attendee style shots. People who came in groups tended to come in equally-dressed-up groups. What really knocked me out was  seeing mother/daughter pairs and trios, and even entire families, dressed to the nines.

Perfect dressy casual, IMHOOn the left, green tones with a shot of orange; on the right, a fuchsia flash who lit up the evening.

"Okay, we're going to coordinate for a full range of hemlines, got it?"Three friends…one color palette…three different ways!

Of course the hat has to match

Blue Lady’s amazing coat is made of fluffy, silky dyed sheepskin, and I loved her friend’s overall elegance.

Family group

Multigenerational trio brings it three different ways.

I wish I was related to them, look at those smilesE is for EXCELLENT – two totally different richly hued looks.

Going for glamThis glamorous quartet had plenty of sparkle laced into their black garments. The red dress really stands out in the crowd!

Notice the ASSEMBLAGE OF GIANT GEMSTONES on the second lady from the leftI don’t even know where to begin with this fab family. So amazing.

Can't sleep, clown purse will eat meWith all of this going on, would you believe that it was the center lady’s hat that caught my eye first? I think she’s my favorite out of everyone.

For everyone I got a photo of, there were two that “got away”, so splendid and busy was the crowd. And I certainly learned a lot, including:

  • Stuff about the new camera (will be tightening up focus especially.)
  • Elaborate hair and sparkly black catch the eye in real life, but purses, shoes, and colors stand out more in photos.
  • Having burlesque content on my blog makes it “risque”. Goodness! I had someone say not to a picture on this basis.
  • Business cards. I will have blog business cards in the near future.
  • People are really wonderful, thank you everyone!
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World of Wearable Arts II: Show Audience Style

A huge part of the fun of World of Wearable Arts is what Wellingtonians themselves like to wear to the show. I went down there with my camera and snapped away. I got so many shots that I’m splitting them into two posts. This one is individuals and couples, and the next one is groups and families.

Looking at the show attendees, I saw black, black, and more black, with very few florals, which are supposed to be in – instead, more than a few all-white looks, and white or orange coats. Lots of that orange, from natural to fluorescent. Instead of a lot of vivid lips – Wellingtonians don’t, as a rule, wear heavy lipstick – I saw pale lips and silver-sparkled eyes (glitter, shadow, body-painting-level art). Many of the best-dressed sauntered in very early to take advantage of catered packages and, perhaps, a cocktail night or something. I missed some lookers while I was checking with event security. Ah, well.

This super-fresh redhead built on classic black with shots of color; her glasses were black and white harlequin. Note the shoes!

The only picture I took indoors – she’s so luxurious yet comfortable, with the glorious textiles and the suede boots.

Sweeping motion with his long silk skirt, which caught the wind, and check out the vivid jewelry.

More vivid color in the night with this caped crusader.

This designer made her ravishing silk outfit herself. She’ll be launching a children’s clothing line soon, she says.

The lady in this well-dressed pair teaches costume at the South Seas Film School.

I just adore men in tuxedos, and the striking lady is one of the WOW designers. I’ve just spent half an hour trying to Google her sv-intense name, to no avail.

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World of Wearable Arts I: The Circus Has Come To Town, Bringing Shoes

This week and next week, The World of Wearable Arts show is happening in Wellington. Imagine the changeling child of Cirque du Soleil and the costume collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, presented as an absorbing son et lumiere spectacle. That’s WOW for you.

What happens when a multiweek styelstravaganza comes to a medium-sized city? Bringing hordes of style-conscious visitors who have the money to attend the not-inexpensive event, and who, with the holidays several months away, are spending their remaining money on themselves? It’s like a second retailer Christmas, and it’s entertaining for those of us who live here.

Deliciously retro department store Kirkcaldie and Stains’ has its staff on a high-alert, low-leave schedule, and its windows are adorned with past WOW entry costumes. Boutiques and stores are expanding their evening and weekend hours, to be rewarded by sales from the crowds going to the event. Capital Books, open late, said that the WOW crowds were already good to them, snapping up sewing and fashion tomes.

Shoe designer Kathryn Wilson even saw fit to inaugurate her spring pop-up store, the SHOEBOX, during WOW week. A gleaming crystalline boutique has suddenly appeared twenty meters from the arena where World of Wearable Arts takes place, brilliantly lit as a spaceship:

Inside the glittering SHOEBOXInside, along with the bon-bons and soignee vendors, are shoes that define New Zealand luxury; buttery leathers, subtle colors, heels that you can walk in as you transfer your weekend bag to the seaside bach.

I'll take that one, that one, and that one

METALLIC BROGUES. I don't even like flats and I'm excited

The shoes’ construction is, well, those who like Fluevogs and Chie Mihara won’t be disappointed. They also pass the “but are they COMFORTABLE??” test. Kathryn Wilson has two lines – the Miss Wilson line is less expensive – and you can also check out the sale section of their web site. I enjoyed the novelty of cruising shoes after dark by the waterfront, myself.

Pretty much all of these look wearable in real life

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Let’s Talk About Shoes

When did shoes become the enemy? My friends and I are always bitching about shoes. They are expensive (particularly in NZ), uncomfortable, and hard to find in our sizes. I whirled into my shoe-repair place this morning, thrifted spangled heels in hand, saying “I brought you more crazy shoes!” to see that somebody else had brought the crazy before me. A set of hot orange-and-pink suede platforms with six-inch heels were in the shoe stretching machine. A friend of mine, getting rid of boots from the ’90s, observed that normal heel heights have reached for the sky.

The result is women getting defensive about wearable shoes, with the increasingly-discussed concept of eight-hour shoes versus limo heels, and writers saying things like I love fashion, as long as I don’t actually have to wear it. Because beautiful shoes hurt. Many women my age still default to Dr. Marten’s.

IMHO the point of shoes is not to be beautiful in and of themselves, but to enhance the wearer’s beauty. And if you can’t move, you aren’t attractive. I like to be able to move in shoes, and I like to wear my shoes forever (the shoes I have on today are 4 years old; the oldest pair in my wardrobe has been there for 24 years). I like a 2-to-2-and-a-half inch heel,  leather and wedges. In temperate to chilly Wellington I get more wear out of closed toe shoes.* Often my everyday shoes are black leather, which is nearly invisible, and they are polished and resoled. I’ve been getting good feedback on breaking out of black leather – leopard haircalf, taupe with studs, cognac, just plain red – so I’m diversifying, slowly, as the budget allows.

As a mental palate cleanser, I recommend the blog Barking Dogs, which reviews mostly-US shoes that have comfort as a priority. Also, have a look at Korkers in Nelson handmade sandals – affordable for custom-made, their leather range includes the primary and jewel colors that are having a Moment. Ask them about contrast leather trim, which they used to do.

For polished shoes and sandals, my eye keeps getting caught by Overland, and it turns out the more expensive shoe store Mi Piaci is their corporate sister. Mi Piaci’s sale is on now, and their website has a sale section. After exploring the Mi Piaci sale, I am pleased to bring you some recommendations for fashion-forward shoes. These aren’t just shoes that look pretty in Etherweb la-la land. I have TRIED THEM ON & am personally vouching for their comfort.

Shoes that don't hurt your feet!

Mi Piaci sale shoes that are comfortable & still available in a range of sizes : top row, Tiga; middle row, Tempest; lower row, Adam and Blackton. Tempest and Blackton are also available in a plain black.

I wound up trying the top and middle row shoes on twice, once with jeans and once with a dress. They turned out to be good all-rounders. Tempest in orange is on layaway for me – the orange is a bit more yellow in person, very wearable compared to the acid-orange tones we are seeing everywhere for spring. Tempest in the zebra stripe would go with all the vivid spring/summer colors out there, and transition beautifully into fall. But the little strap on the Tiga made it even more comfortable and easy to wear, and that toast shade would also offset the vivids of the season. A very difficult decision! The chunky heel on Tiga and Tempest is similar to the heel on the expensive designer Celine shoes for Winter 2012. So this shoe on sale in NZ is like a new release shoe overseas. Also: COMFORTABLE.

A word about Ziera, the-NZ-shoe-brand-formerly-known-as-Kumfs. Despite their attractive, comfortable, and often retro-flavored shoes this season, I am still recovering from a really bad customer service experience there. And if I’m going to pay their $200+ prices I could go to an independent boutique like I Love Paris, or go back and get more great service from Mi Piaci.

If you’ve found any good accessible shoes lately, let me know in the comments?

*I even prefer closed toe shoes for emceeing costumes – more protection against whatever’s on a bar floor, and easier to wear tights with them.

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Adorn: Costuming Up Close in Wellington

Saturday, I was at the intricate costume show Adorn, and you should be, too. It’s at The Roxy theater in Miramar here in Wellington, a free event until October 15th.  Saturday was the “soft” opening – the costumers had just finished setting up the exhibit, and were enjoying relaxed conversation with the wide-eyed attendees.

Now that everything is on the internet, there’s still power and charm in seeing special clothing and jewelry items up close – their richness, fragility, and craft. I especially enjoyed seeing Claire Prebble’s ethereal silver filigree corsets and wearable sculptures, and close-ups of Cathy Tree Harris’ work – the details on her corset ensembles are heartbreaking. Flo Foxworthy’s voluptuous ostrich-feather fans were a crowd favorite.

Glorious leathercraft by Nadine Jaggi

Look at that silk and sequin detailing on this corset by Cathy Tree Harris!

Silk and lace corset by Flo Foxworthy

Flo Foxworthy said that even though they are well known as costumers, they are all open to commissions from those who won’t be wearing their works on stage. The full list of exhibitors is:

  • Flo Foxworthy – From burlesque and circus costumes to utterly delicious bikinis and lingerie for everyone.
  • Cathy Tree Harris – World-class corsetry, exquisite fascinators, and more.
  • Clarie Prebble – Glimmering silver, crystal, and pearl jewelery, from bridal to haute joallerie wearable art. This World of Wearable Arts winner had some lovely silver pieces there for sale.
  • Nadine Jaggi – Ornitho Leather Creations – Along with incredible masks, she also does chic feathers-carved-from-leather jewelery.

Wellington has a love affair with costumes, and it comes to the fore at two times of year: February, for the zany Sevens sports event, and September, when The World of Wearable Arts show is in town. This show, intelligently, dovetails with World of Wearable Arts.

A wearable art ensemble by Cathy Tree Harris.

Adorn was the first outing for my new camera, by the way…hope I did the works justice!

 

A professional photographer makes everything look special! Thanks, Toya at Digitalpix!
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I got dressed for…a photo shoot

Trying something new here, a “what I wore” post.

A professional photographer makes everything look special! Thanks, Toya at Digitalpix!

Navy washed silk shirt with 3/4 balloon sleeves, navy skinny jeans, rich brown boots. Easy on, easy off, looking nice for the makeup artist.

This just happened to be what I was wearing on the day of the photo shoot where my sequined dress was captured in all its glory. The vintage bag is a fun new find that happened to go with the comfy boots – I begged the photographers for a candid with the bag, and this is the result! Dressing on shoot day, I wanted comfortable shoes, to rest my feet after the shoot’s high heels, and to be agile while helping the photographers carry backdrops and props (everyone helped out). I  wore a neutral button-down top, the best thing to don for a professional makeup session. Usually I’d add a necklace or bracelet, even a scarf – the neutral blue palette just begs for it. But no accessories meant less things to mislay at the shoot. As a last note of glamour, my actual hair had been bundled under a wig for the shoot itself, and was still in frizzy shock.

I could list the brands, but…jeez, do you WANT to know the brands? Seriously, do you?

Next one of these will be a candid shot with the New Camera, so it won’t be professional, but it will be far better than recent blurriness. More soon!

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Foxy Friday: Burlesque and Politics

Another opening of another show…go to Miss La Belle to book your tickets! This is a fun cabaret-style evening in a great venue. Friday night is good if you’re a little shy, and Saturday is definitely the party night.

Come get the burlesque oo la la at spring's Frolic Lounge!

Will you look at that line up? Exceptional!!

Whether we like it or not, clothes are important: there has been passionate analysis of Michele Obama’s dress at the Democratic National Convention. More passionate analysis, comparing Obama to Romney. Republican women get compared to each other: the one on a lower budget is considered to have “done it right”.

Wellingtonians, interestingly, do not like politics mixed with their burlesque. At all. Is it because government is, for so many of us, our bread and butter? Perhaps this denial is required to have saucy nightlife in what is also a politically fuelled capital city.

The tights look way better in person
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The Grand New Zealand Design Online Shopping Post

It is New Zealand Fashion Week this week. Let us praise NZ Fashion Week for putting together one of the most accessible Fashion Weeks in the world, with scads of events for the general public, including a photography exhibition. If you can’t make it here…this post is a mini-online Fashion Week for you, to allow you to partake of New Zealand style from the comfort of your couch in Columbus, Long Island, or Delft.

The tights look way better in person

Left to right: Karen Walker gold robots, Iwi Designs tights, Trelise Cooper cuff and ring.

I read a spring edition of a New Zealand fashion magazine, which querulously begged us to not shop online overseas to Support New Zealand Business and the ideal of the “boutique” as a curated space. Luckily, New Zealand fashion has gone ahead and started the future – the desginers here are online, and they’re doing international shipping right. Yes, designer clothes are expensive. But there is a market out there for higher-end items, and they’re reaching out to find it. Just as I shop overseas from NZ, you can shop NZ from overseas.

So, why would you shop NZ from overseas?

  • Ethical production – Clothes made in New Zealand are made by workers earning New Zealand wages and protected by our labor laws. That makes them more expensive than other clothes, but it means they are ethically above board, and also…
  • Great quality and construction – I’m one of those awful people who shops with my hands – after I see a garment I like, I grab it and gauge its texture.I turn it inside-out. My little mitts have been all over these clothes and I am happy to vouch for them.
  • Superior fit for some figures – The cuts of Antipodean clothes are often great for taller women, women with “apple” figures, and women with a low hip-to-waist ratio. A friend of mine who’s on the cusp of American regular and plus sizes found that Antipodean plus sizes fit her like a dream.
  • Vive la difference – For something truly different, design from the other side of the planet can’t be beat.
  • Seasonal sales flip! – You’ll be ordering discounted items for the previous summer/winter that will arrive in time for your spring/fall. A lot of New Zealand clothes are also “transseasonal”, wearable any time of the year, as befits our temperate climate.
  • Sane and/or Free Postage – Researching this, I was startled by the designers offering flat rate or even free worldwide shipping. I also know that these online retailers will give you very personal customer service if required.
  • It’s all cheaper than it looks – The NZ dollar ranges between .70 and .80 cents of the US dollar in value.

Online shopping tips and links galore behind the cut!! [Read more]

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State of the Scrumptious

A lot has been going on behind the scenes here. Since I went to NetHui in July, life has been exceptionally busy. My mom had surgery overseas (she’s fine!) and my partner’s father visited. A stream of freelance work, burlesque emceeing, increased responsibilities at my day job, and two workshops that I gave on August 26th also kept me on the run.

Then it was time to be my OWN web client and to update this site. A year’s worth of spiffing content now has a mobile-friendly look and feel in a “responsive” theme.

After a year of blogging my main preoccupations all sum up as performing the feminine. Get dressed – it’s a performance. Engage in activities within traditional women’s zones – it’s a performance. Get up on stage, go to a conference – it’s a performance. The fashion and style blogs I enjoy the most discuss style in a thoughtful way – Alison at Wardrobe Oxygen had a magnificent post about this. I am planning on ramping up the style elements here.  That said, while I talk about shopping, and brands will be mentioned, a consumer-advocate perspective is what comes naturally to me, more than being a personalized catalog.  I’ve learned that my readers and I all THINK before we spend.  I’m also investing in a new camera this week, so you can look forwards to more and better photos.

My sewing procrastination is at an end – I made this sequined gown in August. It’s silver and pewter sequin tiger stripes! The microsequin fabric stitched up all right, but it demanded to be sewn with a stretch stitch and nothing but, and it had to be lined with a stretch lining. Definitely a sewing learning experience! I finished it in time for a shoot with Digitalpix on the first day of spring.

Full lycra/poly lining = no sequin itches!

Thank you Digitalpix for this delicious portrait! Black and white shows off this pewter and silver gown perfectly.