Exhibit A: Rockabilly Kitchen, original 1940s layout - note the "pie safe" cupboard
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“Vintage Lifestyle:” Cupcakes Against The Abyss

Why did it take me until this month to hear the phrase “vintage and rockabilly lifestyle”?

At first, I was grumpy. “How can an aesthetic be a lifestyle?” Then I looked around my house.

Exhibit A: Rockabilly Kitchen, original 1940s layout - note the "pie safe" cupboard

I hauled this taxidermy around for years. People thought I was mad. Well, WHO'S MAD NOW? Oh, I still am.

Er. If a “vintage lifestyle” is about the aesthetic, the look, the stuff, I am guilty as charged. So, what does it mean to love vintage things but be impatient for the future?

(By the way, these pictures don’t even show the leopard-print sheets. Or the art-deco light fixtures. Or the rusted hand-forged coat hooks I rescued from a junk shop in Auckland, soaked in oil for three weeks, and lovingly hand-sanded. Or the atomic barkcloth curtains that I made with the fabric I ordered from the U.S. for a song (this stuff, with a blue background). I list these things and I think, “Perhaps I could have been saner?” Oh well, moving on.)

The other day in a slip of the tongue I said, “Now that we all live in the 22nd century,” then I realized I wished it was true. I like the Internet, eating food from around the world, being huffily offended at the least jot of racism, and women with science careers. You know that it’s possible to update a Twitter feed using brainwaves alone, right?  How cool is that? And I eagerly anticipate stem cell medical advances and the new ceramics-based electronics.

But just as Western culture took 75 years to fully assimilate the impact of industrialization from 1850 to the 1920s, I think we’re not done with modernism and its changes just yet. The 1990s, you may recall, were all about the cyber and the techno and the virtual, glossy Matrix-style coats, rubber fetish wear. We were chafing at the bit to start the future. Then 9/11 happened, and in the U.S.A., people looked backwards. Cupcakes, aprons, vintage Atari games, That 70s Show. Europe soon jumped on the bandwagon (“Ostalgie” in Germany, the U.K. going retro too) and it trickled to the Southern hemisphere. We’re still unpacking both the retro suitcase we turned back to (which did have layers and layers of cool things in it) and our massive ambivalence about actually having started the future.

For myself, I’m aware that the main space in my abode, my living room, stylistically exiles the Cold War period. As a young teenager I had nightmares about Chernobyl and nuclear disaster – and the space where I spend many hours leaps from Art Deco to 2001, as if the years when we all lived in nuclear terror didn’t exist. But from my non-nuclear bunker, I can contemplate peak oil, global warming, apocalyptic science fiction, and social flux, and take comfort from cupcakes. And let’s face it: if I had Aeon Flux’s cheekbones instead of cupid’s-bow lips and an hourglass figure, my personal style would be less retro.

Aeon Flux - remember when the future used to look like this?

Judge for yourself! There is a mind-boggling array of blogs combining housewifery and “vintage lifestyle” content.  The blogroll here at B. Vikki Vintage is a good cross section.

A vintage lifestyle magazine in South Africa, for a change.

Thinky thoughts on vintage lifestyle advantages.

Retro-futurism: the past’s perspectives on the future. Paleofuture Blog is a treasure trove of this madness.

If you’re in Wellington, NZ, this month’s Nerdnite, on Monday the 19th, is exceptionally interesting. A speaker is discussing Steampunk Digital Humanities, “using new digital tools to reinterpret and visualise traditional data.”

And, finally, long-term retro aficionado artist Robert Crumb’s A Short History of America. So much nostalgia…and this was drawn in 1979. “What next?” as the last panel asks. Crumb himself did an addendum in 1989.

 

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Collette’s Burlesque Stories

Plenty of people want to write about burlesque, but performers’ stories are thin on the ground. Burlesque performers are either absent or goddess-like advice-givers – describing their own ups, downs, setbacks, and tricks is at odds with the brief enchantment of presenting a burlesque persona on stage. I’ve read Immodesty Blaize’s novel Tease, which was an acceptable British-style bonkbuster lashed with luxury brands. I didn’t enjoy it as much as I might have, after reading Collette first.

The recent Dr. Sketchy Wellington, with its corseted models and tumbling curls,  reminded several of us of Colette, and we swapped our favorite Colette titles as we drew. A fine overview of Collette at Apartment Therapy, of all places – whatever Colette wrote about, from goofy bulldogs to tatty bohemian apartments, became infused with glamour. And a side-splitting synopsis of one of her first novels, Claudine in Paris, is here: “Still your beating hearts, mes petites schoolgirl fantasists!” It was after she wrote the Claudine books that she left her husband and, as part of making a living, took to the music-hall stage. Some of the wicked highlights of Collette’s burlesque acts – performed with her butch lesbian lover – are here at History is Made at Night. But she kept her eyes open between acts, and her music-hall burlesque tales are the result.  Colette’s books are worth reading for the potential burlesque names alone. Fanchette, Fosette, Manette, Lola, Kiki-the-Demure – and that’s just the pets!

Anyhow, I promised you burlesque stories. Mitsou, or Music-Hall Sidelights is a collection of short pieces Colette wrote on life in the music hall before and during World War I. The brunette starlet Mitsou has her own novella in the collection, but the shorter following pieces profile the vague blonde chorus girl, the starving male backup, the life of touring vaudeville acts, even the piano accompanist. Collette doesn’t miss a loose spangle or a tubercular cough from her colleagues on the boards. Mitsou was turned into a forgettable movie in 1956 – Colette’s novella Gigi would become a less mangled, more famous movie in 1959.

Lots of today’s burlesque generation will identify more with the wry dancer Renee in Colette’s novella The Vagabond, published serially in 1910. Renee, formerly the complaisant wife of a bohemian philanderer, put her foot down and left, and now makes most of her living on the music-hall stage. Intelligent, world-weary, aware that her beauty is starting to fade, Renee loves dancing but is ambivalent about her current milieu, regarding her compeers with an eye as sardonic as it is affectionate. Surely, when a rich admirer turns out to have a heart as well, she is ready to be swept away from that milieu…or is she? One final dancing tour through the French provinces, and she will decide.

Last, and unmissable, is The Pure and The Impure. Colette profiles the most striking of the erotic adventurers she has known, with tenderness and depth; a heartless womanizer, a dignified butch aristocrat, a bisexual courtesan now turning over dirty tarot cards, the ladies of Llangollen, the lovely and mad poet Renee Vivien. You may ask what this enigmatic queer classic has to do with burlesque. Its milieu of smoky cafes, opium dens, and aristocratic parlors was the demi-monde background to the caf-conc’ dancers in The Vagabond; they were all equally disreputable. And what erotic performer would not benefit from this piercing view into seduction and the human heart?

When winter comes to the Northern Hemisphere, the shoes migrate here in colourful flocks
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The Case Of The International Shoe Clones

I was looking at summer shoes to fill a wardrobe gap or two when I uncovered The Case Of The International Shoe Clones, or, Mysterious Isabella.

Mid-height heels and wedges, I like them. And I thought the shoes by a brand called Miz Mooz were eminently fanciable. Some web research showed that these shoes are much beloved by USA style bloggers. Here in NZ, I sighed wistfully.  A few particular favorites stuck in my mind. So when I saw the shoes in real life, I did a double-take. Except they weren’t branded as Miz Mooz, and I wasn’t in the USA. Mysterious shoe clones had invaded New Zealand!

Clone of the Miz Mooz Lyla wedge:

What great wedges...where have I seen them before?

And more clones of the Miz Mooz Salima shoe:

Have you seen this shoe? Because it is awesomeThere may have been other clones in the display.

When winter comes to the Northern Hemisphere, the shoes migrate here in colourful flocksBut these were the ones that struck me.

In New Zealand, these shoes are being sold under the brand name Isabella Anselmi. Which is a mystery brand with a range of different styles and no independent web site. There is, ostensibly, some manufacturing in Australia. Curiouser and curiouser! Especially because Miz Mooz says their shoes are based on their designs, and they do indeed have a strong distinctive look.

Having held them in my hands, poked and prodded them and felt their materials, I happily vouch that these are good quality, comfortable shoes. They are also being sold new at what I consider a reasonable NZ markup compared to their new USA pricing – the mystery 25% extra cost (discussed in an earlier post here) isn’t being applied.  The difference is that in the USA, they are lavished with clever marketing, sent out to bloggers, and discussed on forums. Here, they are stealth branded and have to speak for themselves.

Preparing this post, I mentioned the International Shoe Clones to a few people, and they brought out their own stories. The shirt they found at a modest midrange store in New Zealand that they later saw being sold for 300 pounds in London. The web site based in China that was selling the OTHER Nikes.  “The life of a shoe is an exciting one!” says Miz Mooz. And the paths that garments take from the factories of Asia to Western consumers are strange and convoluted.

I don’t think anybody’s going to send me any shoes to review after this post…

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The New Zealand Man In His Own Words

A few years ago, I put a personal ad up online. Reading through the profiles of men who sent me a “smile” signal or who were matched to me automatically by the personals site, here is what I learned about the New Zealand Man.

Personality-wise, the New Zealand man is a relaxed specimen. He has “got a sence of humor (sometimes it`s a bit strange)”, and is “goal orintated and set hi standards for myself.” The New Zealand man asserts his normalcy with statements like, “Fairly laid back, does not take life too seriously,” “a very non threaening person,” “The vampire lifestyle just isn’t for me,” and “fun loving & happy to lie about how we met.”

What does the New Zealand man like to do? They are “passionate about fihing,” “flying, fishing, shooting,” “motorbikes, fishing and building things, walking,” “fishing,holidays,and casino,” “dogs fishing hunting”. I’m so glad I’m not a fish. New Zealand Man has a can-do attitude, always “upgrading the house” and pitching their woo by noting “i might come in handy to sort out problems with computers or Automotive Engineering.” Their dream vacation seems to be either a motorcycle trip across the U.S.A, or the desire to see the obscure corners of seven continents.

Where food is concerned, the New Zealand man is a carnivore, when he is not semi-vegetarian, and has pedestrian tastes, unless he is adventurous. Those who enjoy meat are firm in their preference, “Bacon &eggs, Meat&three veges, roasts etc.” “mmmm steak!!!” “wholesome meat,” “i d have to say i enjoy roast chicken.” For each guy who likes “Pasta, fish, chicken” is someone who boldy says “I don’t like pasta”. For themselves, they cook “stews, bolognese, steak, or what looks really nice in the cook book.” The results are often “surprising meals (even to myself)”. Wisely, the New Zealand man notes, “i dont find cooking that difficult, cleaning up is the big bug bare.”

Musically, the 80s live on; several fellows have as their latest new album Meatloaf’s Greatest Hits and works by David Lee Roth, Dire Straits, the Clash – have any albums been released in New Zealand since 1989? And is Peter Jackson’s oeuvre so irresistible that his films are cited again and again as a most recently seen movie? With the printed page, the New Zealand man leans towards enjoying nonfiction and classics such as “The Great Gasby”.

Spiritually, the New Zealand man is in touch with his emotions. These gentlemen are “happy go luck ,very romantic, very spiritual mined.” In amour, if not in guerre, “politics is for the useless monkeys.” In a romantic mood, they “enjoy night’s out on the town winning and dining.” Simple pleasures reign – The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayann is evoked by the wish for “A nice meal then the company of a caring loving woman,” the humble desire for “a nice lady to have outting’s with.”

Overall, New Zealand men are open to women as they truly are in finding their match – each understated wish for someone “fit” is paralleled with someone else’s bolder “appearance is less important than the person inside.” That said, there seems to be a striking amount of New Zealand men who dig tall chicks. “I’m into taller women — at least 167cm / 5’6″ would be great.” “Tall women only!!!” “On the tallish side.”

Above all, New Zealand men are true individuals…receiving 40th birthday gifts of a unicycle and a bottle of tequila…working on becoming an eccentric millionaire…drilling for oil in the sub-Antarctic…frequently a loner…wanting to set up wood shops or work on jewelry…photographing tigers…building model tanks…dancing up a storm…firing up the RV and heading off towards the horizon.

New Zealand Man, you make the copyeditor in me sigh in despair, even as the woman in me salutes you fondly.

For more of the New Zealand Man in his own words, with the benefit of some serious writing talent, check out Tim Jones’ new poetry collection. “Men Briefly Explained explores all aspects of contemporary manhood, the humourous and not so humourous, where men are in relation to women and to society in general. ” Click on the image for more!

I'm so glad we have this book at last.

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Living in NZ, Shopping Overseas: Apology Necessary?

Why are quality clothes and cosmetics notably more expensive in New Zealand than in other Western markets? Should I feel bad about shopping overseas and having items shipped here?

A substantial amount of my wardrobe, and most of my shoes, comes from overseas, i.e., retailers outside of New Zealand. There are three reasons: sizes, selection, and “economies of scale.”

Everyone has a size rant, and you don’t need to hear mine. Selection is not a necessity to put clothes on one’s back, but a desire for a first-world luxury. But let’s take a closer look at those “economies of scale.”

Math: still this glamorousOutside of the importing retail giant The Warehouse, clothing and cosmetic prices are comparatively high in New Zealand. Blame is often laid on NZ government tariffs. But these are, according to NZIS (PDF document here) set at 9.5% for clothing, 6.5% for footwear, and 3.5% for fragrance.  That is…actually not that bad. Blame is also laid on shipping – and the costs incurred by outside NZ vendors shipping independently to New Zealand show that this, also, doesn’t account for the full story behind inflated prices. For example, let’s look at this pair of Naya shoes, originally priced at $140 in the USA. When we convert that to NZ currency, they are currently $165 NZD – let’s apply $10 tariffs, $15 shipping – let’s round it up a wee bit for stocking/processing and say $190 NZD.  But they’re for sale in downtown Wellington boutiques for $260. An MAC lipstick, about $15 in US, is currently $18 in NZD, with a tariff of – I can’t give it anything less than $5 and maintain my sanity – and minimal shipping. Again, let’s be generous and account for staffing/stocking and say $30. Instead, it’s $40. MAC is only sold via large corporate outlets, with counters in stores or as standalone stores themselves. So we have two items, in different retail settings, that average a mysterious 25% additional cost.

Math was never my strong point, but something seems wrong.

Are these higher prices perhaps a hangover from days when the NZ dollar was weaker? It’s been on the high side against the US dollar for a good eight months now, so for these new-season items, should we be seeing reduced prices?

If any NZ retailers out there have something to say about this, please, comment! Keep it clean and polite – we really want to know.

Meanwhile, in the past two years many international retailers have discovered it wasn’t the end of the world to ship to the end of the world. The response amongst NZ ladyconsumers is that links are being swapped. Endless for shoes, Strawberrynet for cosmetics, Asos for everything in all sizes. Ebay and Etsy sellers are in on the game.

For me, the occasional downside of buying mail order and overseas is getting stuck with lame ducks. Online reviewing reduces this tremendously, I find.  But what’s the downside for NZ and my local economy? I’m sucking money away from that.

I know brick and mortar stores have their costs, and the minimum wage in NZ is a living wage.  And I know local makeup artists. They are lovely and helpful. They get a bit if I buy from their counters. Personally, I feel there is a tackiness to trying colors at their counter, then running away and buying online.

In the USA, where online shopping has advanced tremendously, the retail landscape has been transformed. Borders Books has gone through a global collapse. In San Francisco on Valencia Street, every third boutique seemed emptied  by year 3 of a recession combined with the punch of Etsy as a quirky retail juggernaut. Here in NZ, we are seeing the retail impact of online shopping begin with the antique and vintage places that have shrunk and vanished, often citing online sale/auction sites.

To end on a slightly encouraging note, here are a list of NZ made items that are well priced and great quality:

  • Leather bags and wallets from Konev. I could go on all day about how great, sexy, and durable these are.
  • Thunderpants fun, amazing underwear and clothes.
  • Frutti on Cuba Street in Wellington stocks a range of affordable retro-flavored delights, mostly made in New Zealand.
  • Art and clothing from Felt.co.nz – note this lovely dress from Pixie Pocket! And this other one from coolitdaddyo! Made to your exact size, even. NZ vintagistas are ordering a lot of dresses from China-made ChicStar and retro-repro purveyors in the USA. You can see that we have price-competitive local alternatives.
"The things I've seen!" say these US WWII Navy binoculars.
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If These Binoculars Could Talk

"The things I've seen!" say these US WWII Navy binoculars.These just may be the sexiest WWII Navy issue binoculars ever. You see, they have a story.

I was at a friend’s house and he said, “You’ll like this!” And he showed me two things. First he showed me a Pliocene era articulated Ostridae fossil, complete and articulated, and that was greatly appreciated. Then, later, he brought out the binoculars.

“The story with these is that the former owner’s grandmother accepted these during World War II in exchange for a weekend with her. They would have been worth about $1000 at the time.”

The mind reels. Forget silk stockings. How hot was she, for him to steal the binoculars? What kind of woman accepts high-end military optics as the price of her favors? Maybe one who’s in a local underground militia? Did they burn with chemistry for one another, and the binocular exchange was just an excuse?  Did she think he was a schlub at first, but changed her mind after the weekend of passion? Why did she keep the binoculars?

Notice the pearls on her umbrella?
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Brunettes At The Burlesque

“Pictures of the audience at Carousel Cabaret! Yes! That will be a great place to find some Wellington style.” Was it ever – I was overwhelmed. Here’s some shots of what we all wore out to the burlesque.

Notice the pearls on her umbrella?This vision in white was a crowd favorite. In one of life’s strange coincidences, I ran into emcee Penny Ashton at the airport the next day and mentioned taking a picture of this delightful dame. Penny immediately said, “The meringue girl! I loved her!”

Suzie Shandy bringing tropical warmth to the end of winterSuzie Shandy, glamorous from head to toe.

The night belongs to them, whoever they are.Just outside the front door.

I'm loving the green and black. More tropical touches to warm up a cold night.

BOOOOOTS!Joie de Vivre shows off her fabulous rose-embroidered boots.

Va va voom!Not only have I admired this lady on multiple occasions, she is the proprietrix of I Like Pretty Clothes. You can find her own story behind this ravishing dress & much, much more there. This post would have gone up an hour sooner if I hadn’t been looking at her site. Her picture is last because you’re all going to go spend hours there, too!

All brunettes, I know…sincere apologies to a pair of stunning ladies whose picture didn’t come out. I loved them because one wasn’t wearing black – she wore sapphire satin, green, and a leopard print bolero – and the other had zinged up her ensemble with hot pink shoes and sequins. Our loss!

Such fun to design this poster!
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Friday Follies: Sharpen Your Pencils Again

First I talk about this month’s Dr. Sketchy, then I link to some artists who will keep you on the web for hours and hours. So, go get something to drink before you read this post.

Dr. Sketchy Wellington happens every month, but I think this month is special – vintage seamstress Leimomi Oakes, aka The Dreamstress, and a host of models will be wearing exquisite corsets, and Leimomi will teach us about lingerie history. A corset lacing demonstration will be part of the event, so if you’ve ever wanted to learn the RIGHT way to lace and tie your corset, this will be the place.

I’m chuffed to have had the opportunity to design the poster for this event!

Such fun to design this poster!

To inspire us all to get drawing, here’s a few of my favorite female artists from the web:

Colleen DoranInterviewed here by Molly Crabapple, the lush, bejeweled 80s style of her A Distant Soil space opera comic (you can read it online here) influenced a lot of us. And I still have a crush on Kovar to this day.

Amy Mebberson – Enchanting pinup girls, cartoons, and is particularly well known as a favorite Muppets artist. Vintagistas might like her Thorn cartoons about a naughty little girl in the 50s.

Dale Messick – Most famous as the artist of Brenda Starr, where she depicted the loopy adventures of a feisty redhaired reporter, with over-the-top fashion styling from the 40s through the 50s, 60s, and 70s. Here’s Dale’s life through the 20th century.

And, for a view into the mind of an art collector, here’s another Wellington event: Fleur’s Arty Farty Tea Party – meet artist Fleur Williams, get a tour of her art collection and studio, and have a lovely afternoon tea!

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Vintage Perfume Bottles and Hidden Vintage Store “The Retro Room”

Part of my pleasure in perfumes comes from an attractive bottle – something that’s very subjective. At the end of our last perfume post, I loved the quirky sci-fi design of one perfume bottle, Womanity, while other people just found it bizarre. Right now my everyday perfume is something called “Woman in Rose”. It’s a light green-tinged floral, like someone rolled fresh leaves and scented rose petals and a hint of musk together and summoned The Perfume Fairy to make it last. But the bottle is a clunker.

Luckily, I can just decant  it into another bottle. I could use a practical, shiny new bottle, as recommended in the link. Or one of my favorite things, a vintage atomizer or bottle!

It can be challenging to find these -  “boudoir” items from the dressing table are now a vintage/antique collector category, one that’s getting more popular. But one day in downtown Wellington I saw a sign in a foyer for a vintage and jewelry shop, The Retro Room. I like exploring. Hidden stores in old buildings? Sign me up. After two flights of stairs, I was rewarded with a two-room vintage emporium that has great stash of vintage perfume bottles, atomizers, perfumes themselves, and makeup compacts. Naturally, The Retro Room has all kinds of retro goodness – I was impressed with their accessories in particular: shoes, purses, hats, jewellery all tempted. But with perfume on my mind  I was struck by their strong perfume-related inventory.

This is only one shelf of the vintage perfume bottle selection at The Retro Room in Wellington

The Retro Room has two locations in Wellington:
311 Willis Street (open regularly)
Room 27, Trade Union Building, 124 Vivien Street (open by appointment)

Both these places are on the second floor or higher, so walk into foyers and look up! Once a month they have a special late night for customers at the Vivien Street shop, complete with glasses of bubbly.

One of my favorite things about vintage atomizers is that sometimes the old perfume lingers in them. And then you add your perfume, and your scent gets a fascinating overlay. I adore this, but maybe you don’t. The Retro Room proprietor has the answer. She says, “Simply open the atomizer and rinse the bottle, using rubbing alcohol. Then let it dry.” This removes the previous scent. Brilliant!

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Perfume Interview with Judith of Unseen Censer Part II: Advice and Recommendations

Yesterday we had Part I of our interview with perfumista Judith, who blogs at Unseen Censer. In the second part of her interview, she helps us make sense out of the massive amounts of perfume out there, and how to store it and wear it once it’s acquired.

An exceptionally lovely bottle from the Unseen Censer collection, vintage Nuit de Noel.

I asked her for her perfume recommendations – greens, florals, what to wear for a night at the burlesque, and what she’d recommend for a wedding. More advice is mingled with the recs, such as how to wear the more challenging artisanal perfumes. And at the end, I’ve noted my own New Zealand and online places to buy fragrance. So read on!

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